PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARK LOADER
We’re entering our 12th Summer at Sutter Meats, but you don’t need years of butchery experience to know there’s a definite hierarchy among beef cuts for the grill. While the loin usually owns the summer spotlight, the chuck primal is often unfairly relegated to the winter slow-cooker. We associate it with heavy braises and snowy evenings by a roaring fire rather than sun-drenched afternoons by the grill. However, hidden within the shoulder are two cuts that rival the loin’s far more celebrated steaks: the flat iron and the teres major.
The flat iron steak, carefully seamed from the shoulder blade, is one of the most consistently tender steaks available. Its marbling provides a deep, beef-forward flavor, and its uniform thickness is ideal for grilling, resulting in a rich, decadent bite. Similarly, the teres major, called the “petite tender” in our shop, lives up to its name as a tender treat. While it resembles a miniature tenderloin, it offers a more pronounced mineral richness. Because this muscle does little work, it remains incredibly tender while retaining the depth and character of the chuck.
I find the simplest route is always best when cooking these cuts. First, a dry brine seasons the meat and primes it for a wonderful browning on the grill by removing excess water. A couple of hours before cooking, or up to overnight, rub about a tablespoon of kosher salt all over the beef and let it sit uncovered on a plate in your refrigerator until you’re ready to cook.
For the cooking itself, I don’t use a recipe so much as a method. It’s actually called the 3-3-2-2 method and I learned it years ago from Rob Levitt (now head chef of The Publican in Chicago). This works wonders for any cut of meat around an inch thick, like the flat iron steak. Get your grill to a moderate heat, not quite smoking. Pat your salted flat iron dry and slap it on the grill. Now, be patient. You cook undisturbed for 3 minutes, then flip and cook the other side for 3 minutes, flip again and cook for 2 minutes, then flip one last time for a final 2 minutes. This will create an even browning and give you a tender, medium-rare steak. 10 minutes to perfection! The unique shape of the teres major necessitates a couple more minutes of cooking, so just go 3-3-2-2-1-1. Pretty easy to remember, and awesome results. Finally, steaks from the chuck need to rest a little longer after cooking before you slice into them. Wait 10 minutes before slicing thinly across the grain.
To accompany the meal, our chimichurri offers a bright, herbaceous balance to the steaks’ beefy richness. A pint of chimichurri may seem like a lot, but you’ll be putting it on everything! Also, no grill party at our house is complete without our potato salad; the homemade bacon dressing adds an irresistibly savory, smoky finish.
PHILIPPE JEANJEAN’S SUGGESTED WINE PAIRING
For this pairing, let’s follow the “what grows together, goes together” rule. This South American dish is looking for its friends and neighbors malbec from Argentina or tannat from Uruguay. Both wines carry the sun and spices of the Andes to complement this nice combination of meat and chimichurri.
